If you’re here you’ve either bought a BennVenn 3″ LCD already or you’d like to in the future so head on over to his site to buy one when they are in stock BennVenns Store
So this guide is to help you to install the BV3″ LCD with my glass and also the installation bracket. This should hopefully make the install nice and easy and give you a nicely finished console at the end
You’re going to need:
- Jellybelly Custom LCD Bracket
- Jellybelly Custom 3″ Glass Lens
- Flush Cutters
- Dremel or Craft Knife
- Soldering equipment
- Marker Pen
- Shell and Buttons
- Game Boy Rear board
- Kapton Tape
- Bag of sweets and a drink (can be thirsty work)
You need to take the shell of your choice, either an aftermarket or original shell. The front half is what will need all of your attention so put the back half to one side.
Take the JBC BV3″ Jig and put it where the lens should live, this will give you a template to show you the perfect amount to cut away for the LCD to be visible but clearance for the glass so you don’t end up seeing plastic.
Use your marker pen, to mark the inside so you know where to cut.
Remove the jig to unveil your beautiful cut line. What could possibly go wrong?
Flip the front shell over, on the image below you will see the high areas that need to be removed flush and smooth with the shell as the LCD will live there, so they need removing. Do this with some flush cutters, craft knife or a Dremel.
Take your time with this stage, and Dremel users don’t go too crazy with it. Them things can get carried away sometimes. Also, try not to slip!
You should end up with something like this:
***JellyBelly’s Top Tip***
Use a marker pen to black the inside edge that you just cut. This helps make things look nice and neat, and the edges less visible when things are all done. You can thank me later!
Disclaimer… You do this at your own risk, take your time and done rush it. A little at a time and don’t cut it all at once.
This is the hardest part of the install really, you need to trim the mounting tabs off the plastic LCD housing. These are not needed and get in the way of the install in a central position.
Take your time doing this, do it a little at a time with your chosen method either side cutters or a dermal, but BE CAREFUL!
Do it in little bits, don’t go in for the kill and cut the whole tab off in one go, Nibble away at it slowly. If you damage your LCD don’t blame me. You’re in charge of your tools and hands so it’s your own fault.
Doing this will mean it fits centrally and also inside the LCD bracket to hold things in
Once done drop you LCD bracket into place like so:
You should then be able to install the LCD inside this bracket, it might be a little bit of a squeeze but will hold it nicely. There is a little vertical movement to adjust the height of the LCD if the fitment is not quite right, this varies on shells, manufacturers and where you bought it from. So a little input from you is needed
Get your buttons and nice clean membranes, and fit them into the shell.
Make sure the tiny wires on the LCD are going toward the center of the shell, like in the image this will help get them out of the way of the membranes and also through the hole they need to be going through in the motherboard.
Put the motherboard over and feed the ribbon and power wires through the hole. The motherboard is a snug fit over the screw post so might need a bit of help over them. This was a China repro shell so it was tight.
Now put all 6 Screws into place, these go through the holes that are circled in white.
Now fire up the soldering iron and solder the power cables as it shows below,
Nice and neat please, a bit of flux and some decent leaded solder. Give it a clean afterward as well, please
Don’t forget the speaker (because I did the first time), this will either need to be off the original doner board or a new one HERE.
***JellyBelly’s Top Tip***
Use a bit of kapton tape as shown below this will help the ribbon fold in the right place when closing up the shell… You can thank me later!
Step 5: The home straight!
Turn the console over and test the LCD, plug this into your rear board and either use batteries or power supply. Hopefully, fingers crossed it should be working. If not….. erm….. its nothing to do with me.
You should see the start-up screen. A little like this.
Next up before we completely assemble the Game Boy, make sure the buttons are working nicely, and that they register buttons presses. Pop a game in and test things just to make sure.
Next, take you Glass lens and remove the center only part of the adhesive, you can lay it on for a test fit to make sure the LCD and glass are positioned correctly. Hopefully!
You should be seeing a nice cental image with an even gap around the edges
If you’re happy with everything its time to reassemble the Game Boy with the rear board and all the screws to hold it together.
Then once assembled make sure everything is nice, clean and dust free. Peel the adhesive off the rear of the glass and apply it to the console. No dust or fingerprints, please!
You are now finished……
Admire and play your handy work
The 3″ Bennvenn LCD really is a nice thing for certain games, Tetris is a blast with it. Some games suffer from a motion blurring effect which is a shame but you can’t have everything.
Hope you found this useful